Clear fallen leaves promptly
A thick layer of wet leaves smothers turf and invites disease. Remove leaves weekly through late fall so your lawn gets light and air heading into dormancy.
Maintaining a healthy lawn in Dallas–Fort Worth is a different challenge than anywhere else in the country. Heavy clay soil, scorching summers, sudden freezes, and long dry spells all shape what your property needs and when it needs it.
This guide brings together what our crews have learned from servicing more than 1,200 residential and commercial properties across the metroplex. Use it to understand your grass type, plan your year, and know when professional help makes the biggest difference.
Correct mowing height, watering, and fertilizing all depend on the grass you actually have. Most lawns in North Texas are one of these three.
The most common North Texas turf. It loves full sun, handles drought well, and recovers quickly, but it needs frequent mowing and regular feeding to stay dense and dark green.
A broad-bladed grass that tolerates partial shade better than any other warm-season option. It needs consistent watering and careful attention to chinch bugs and fungus in humid weather.
A dense, soft turf that crowds out weeds and handles moderate shade. It establishes slowly, but once it fills in, it is one of the most attractive lawns in Dallas–Fort Worth.
Apply pre-emergent weed control in late February or early March, refresh mulch beds, and begin fertilizing once your lawn fully greens up.
Mow regularly, water deeply but less often, and watch for grubs, armyworms, and heat stress during July and August.
Apply a fall pre-emergent in September, remove leaves promptly, aerate compacted soil, and plant cool-season color in your flower beds.
Prune dormant trees and shrubs, protect tender plants before hard freezes, and plan spring projects like sod installation and bed redesigns.
North Texas clay holds water but drains slowly, so frequent light watering produces shallow roots and weak turf. Water deeply, about one inch per week including rainfall, in the early morning to reduce evaporation and fungus.
Annual core aeration relieves compaction, lets water and nutrients reach the root zone, and is one of the most effective upgrades for a struggling lawn. Pair it with a soil test so your fertilizer program matches what your soil actually lacks.
A thick layer of wet leaves smothers turf and invites disease. Remove leaves weekly through late fall so your lawn gets light and air heading into dormancy.
Winter is the best time to remove deadwood and shape ornamental and shade trees. Without leaves you can see the structure clearly, and the tree has time to heal before spring growth.
Clay soil holds water longer than sandy soil, so one inch per week delivered in one or two early-morning sessions builds deeper roots than a few minutes every day.
A layer of mulch this thick suppresses weeds and locks in moisture without smothering roots. Pull it back a few inches from tree trunks and shrub stems to prevent rot and pests.
Apply pre-emergent in late February or early March, before soil temperatures reach about 55 degrees, to block crabgrass and other summer weeds. Repeat in September to stop winter weeds before they germinate.
Raise your mower one notch from June through August. Taller blades shade the soil, hold moisture, and help Bermuda, St. Augustine, and Zoysia lawns survive 100-degree North Texas afternoons without browning.
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